This fox/mink stole sewing pattern is a great addition to the vintage lover’s closet. Cruelty free, and with no mothball stink that so often accompanies vintage fur, this pattern can be made in an afternoon.
A few tips on sewing faux fur:
1) I hated it. It shed all over the place, and it’s difficult to work with. If you’re cool with that, or at least willing to deal with it to make a great accessory, then you’ll be fine.
2) Make sure you use a lighter weight faux fur fabric. Anything too thick will be impossible to sew. That doesn’t mean you have to settle for minky or fleece or anything, but you do need to be aware of your machine’s limits. The fur I used for this project is thicker than what I would recommend, but it was so beautiful that I had to use it.
3) Trim the fur from all seam allowances before sewing! This needs to be in all caps: TRIM THE FUR FROM YOUR SEAM ALLOWANCES BEFORE SEWING!!! It makes everything less impossible.
4) You will have to hand sew your basting stitches, especially when you’re sewing the top half of the body to the lower half, and especially along the bum line; you’re dealing with multiple layers of fur, and your machine won’t be able to handle it without a little help. Which brings us to:
5) Your machine might not be able to handle this project at all, especially is it’s a very basic domestic machine. I used a Singer Heavy Duty 4411, which is a domestic machine, but it’s quite a bit sturdier than an average machine, and it was still a struggle. Just be aware of what you’re working with before you start this project.
6) Use a heavy gauge needle for this project! I used 16/90, and I somehow managed to not break it, not that I didn’t try.
7) Use a longer stitch length. I’m talking 3.5-4 for this project, unless you’re using a lighter weight fabric. The feed dogs won’t move anything anywhere if you use a shorter stitch length.
8) I used a zipper foot to sew the top body piece to the lower body. I’m not sure that it was better than using a universal foot, and I’m not going to specifically recommend it, but you can experiment for yourself. The reason I tried the zipper foot was because I thought that it would help with the lumpier parts of the body (sewing the top to bottom body pieces got kinda unstable near the ears and legs and head seams, and it was hard to maintain a steady ½” seam allowance), but it didn’t hold the fabric down as sturdily as a universal foot, so you can choose for yourself.
*1-yard faux fur (you will have leftover fabric, but you need at least 30” in length to lay the body piece out the right way)
*Black buttons for eyes (shank buttons are best)
*Strong sewing machine
*Hand sewing needle
*Snap for snap closure to sew onto chin and tail (instructions not included, shouldn’t need them!)
There is a ½” seam allowance included but not marked on pattern.
Let’s get started!
Print your pattern pages, and tape together, aligning circles and page borders. This is the page layout format for this pattern:
Cut out your pattern pieces and lay them out on fabric lengthwise (the fur on the layout page is flowing in a downward direction). The following picture shows layout on a single layer of faux fur fabric, 58” wide, 36” long.
(Picture only available in purchased sewing pattern download!)
Cut out your fabric and trim the fur down on all seam allowances.
With right sides together, sew the ears.
Same with the arms and legs.
And the tail. Turn them all right side out.
With right sides facing, baste the ears to the top head piece.
With right sides together, sew the top head to top body (basted ears will be sandwiched between the two).
Hand sew the eyes onto the face.
Hand baste tail onto top body piece.
Hand baste and then sew arms to lower head piece, and then sew to lower body piece. Make sure the fur is flowing away from the head! If you’re adding a snap closure to the chin and tail, now’s your chance!
Hand baste legs to bottom body piece (at the bottom, doye).
With right sides together, baste and then sew top body and head to lower body and head. Make sure that arms, legs, tail and ears are neatly tucked inside so that they don’t get caught up in your stitching, and don’t forget to leave a big gap to turn the dude right side out afterwards. Go slowly, take many breaks.
Turn it right side out, and hand sew the gap closed. Look at this awesome little guy!