Here she is in all her summery glory:
The Miss Millie top is a lightweight cotton pullover that features a horizontal princess seam, scoop neck, a split-front collar with bias bound or necktie variations, shoulder tabs, bound armholes, and a gently scalloped double fold hem.
Suitable fabrics: cotton shirting, quilting cotton, chambray, linen, challis, flannel.
The pattern PDF is available in sizes S-XXL, bust sizes 35-48″.
A 1/2″ seam allowance is included but not marked on the pattern.
1 3/4 yds fabric (less if fabric is wider than 45″, possibly more if fabric is narrower than 45″)
Bias Binding tape, store bought or homemade
Serger (or your own method for finishing raw edges)
Skill level: Intermediate. You gotta have garment sewing experience. Read through the instructions, and if they aren’t clear, or if you can’t come up with a clear alternative, then this pattern ain’t for ye!
Let’s get started!
Print up your test square, which should measure 4″ x 4″. If the measurements are correct, go ahead and print the sewing pattern PDF. If the measurements on the test square don’t add up to 4″ x 4″ then you have to adjust your printer settings before printing the pattern.
Once your pattern is printed, lay out your pages so that the numbered dots near the edges of the pages match up with the corresponding numbered dots (1A with 1A, 2B with 2B, etc). It should look like actual sewing pattern pieces when you do that:
Attach the pages together so that those numbered dots line up, trimming pages to reduce paper bulk where necessary.
You should have several separate pattern pieces when you’re done:
Cut out your size.
You might find it helpful to use a coloured marker to highlight your personal size, to avoid any confusion in the more congested areas of the pattern.
Once it’s all cut out, take your shoulder tab pattern piece and clip a tiny notch in the halfway point of the flat edge:
Lay out your pattern on your fabric in one of the following two methods, depending on your fabric width (the fabric is folded lengthwise, right sides together, as you would expect).
If your fabric is at least 54″ wide, you might be able to layout like this:
Otherwise, lay it out like this:
Cut out your pieces!
Once you’ve cut your lower front bodice piece, clip a tiny notch in the top of the centre front fold.
Take your shoulder tabs, and with right sides facing, sew using a 3/8″ seam allowance.
Clip the corners and turn right side out.
With right sides facing, pin the upper front bodice together at the notch on the centre front.
Above that notch, baste stitch, using your widest stitch setting. Below that notch, sew using a regular stitch setting, remembering to back tack when you switch over from basting to regular stitch.
Do all of this with a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Before you press open your seam, double fold each seam allowance lengthwise towards the stitching line and press.
Top stitch a small horizontal line across the notch, separating the basting stitches from the regular stitches.
Top stitch the folded seam allowances, a scant 1/4″ away from the centre front seam.
Open up your basting stitches and pull out any loose threads.
With right sides facing, pin and sew your upper front bodice to your lower front bodice, matching the upper bodice centre front seam with the lower bodice centre front notch.
Serge the seam.
Top stitch the princess seam.
With right sides facing , sew and serge the back bodice pieces together along the centre back seam.
With right sides facing, sew and serge front bodice to back bodice at shoulders and side seams.
Press seams forward.
With right sides facing, baste stitch the open length of the shoulder tabs to the armholes, with an 1/8″ seam allowance, matching up shoulder seam with the midpoint notch on the shoulder tab.
With right sides facing, sew binding to armholes, using 1/4″ seam allowance, and leaving 1/2″ of excess binding tape on both ends of seam.
Clip notches around curves of armholes, and understitch binding at the seam line.
Turn garment wrong side out, double fold the binding and sew it to the inside of the armhole, making sure to pull shoulder tab outwards as you get to it.
Double fold hem and sew.
To sew a necktie neckline, skip down to the necktie tutorial towards the bottom of the page.
To sew a bound neckline, sew binding with right sides facing, using 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving 3/4″ excess binding on each end of the seam.
Clip notches around curves, and understitch binding along seam.
Fold excess binding in at the start and end of the seam.
And double fold binding to wrong side of fabric.
Admire your stitching work from the wrong side of the garment.
Turn your shirt right side out and wear it immediately.
To sew a necktie instead of a bound neckline:
Right sides facing, sew the necktie at centre back, and press open the seam.
Press down the raw edges 3/8″ lengthwise along the necktie.
With right sides facing, fold the necktie in half lengthwise, and sew the end points, making sure not to sew into the folded edge.
Turn necktie right side out, and, with right side of necktie facing WRONG side of top, pin and sew necktie to neckline of top, matching centre back seams, and pinning outwards from there.
Fold over the necktie to the right side of the top, starting once again at the centre back seam, and working your way outward, pinning into place.
Continue pinning the necktie in half lengthwise along each tie, until you reach the pointed ends.
Carefully top stitch all the way around, starting at one tie end, sewing around the neckline, and ending at the other tie end.