The Sleeve Chronicles

I finished the first wearable long sleeved button down shirt yesterday.

longsl1

Ain’t she a beaut?

Aside from a few minor tweaks, I’m sticking with the same bodice and collar that I used for the Summer season. Luckily, it didn’t take too many tries to sort out the long sleeve pattern, despite the best efforts of my drafting textbook, aka She of the Tiny Measurements for Tiny People. I also consulted another textbook, a mens wear-specific textbook, but its working title is Centimetres or Inches or Sometimes Neither, which was minimally helpful.

After I sorted out the sleeve length, and after I boasted to my retailers about having a Fall line that included long sleeves, I then remembered that I have to flat-fell said long sleeves. Which has been a bit of a struggle. However, I just found this guide, which was suggested by this forum, and it looks pretty much the same as what I did, so I guess I’m where I should be.

Speaking of sleeves, check out my first draft of a placket and cuffs:

longsl2

Ignoring the wrinkles, I think I did a pretty not bad job. I can’t remember if this is the placket that was thoroughly fudged as a result of me starting on it before I revisited my favourite placket video:

My girl Angela saves the day. My second placket was flawless, btw.

The cuffs were another journey into the land of weird measurements. Long story short: the cuffs that fit the women’s large size were originally drafted as a men’s XL. So they’ve all been re-drafted, and I did away with the cute corner details too. For now. I may or may not add them back in.

Check out those lovely guts (stitching):

longsl3

Ungh.

Say what you will about flat-felling, it sure does purty up a shirt.

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